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The Weejun

The Ivy League Look - The Boom Years and Beyond...
Feb 21 '14
The Striped T Worn in situ.
(Image Via FItzgerald’s Closet.)

The Striped T Worn in situ.

(Image Via FItzgerald’s Closet.)

Feb 21 '14
Classic 60s West Coast T Shirts
With so many ‘heritage’ labels getting their own heritage wrong (LVC, LL Bean, Brooks Brothers) actually finding classic items that have not been messed with is pretty hard.
Leith Clothing from John Simons colleague Guy and his pal Lewis are producing limited simple and unadulterated classics. No logos, no nonsense. I bought one of these blue/off white striped Ts this week and the service from Leith was amazing. The first one was a bit small on me and they sent me a second one before I’d even posted the first.
I like to buy at least a season ahead and this is going to be a look with white 5 pockets and sperry CVOs (and a navy pendleton board shirt for the London summer) that will get much use. The only problem I have is I’m going to have to buy more. You know, when you see something and it fits and its classic you need to stock up for a future drought of ivy classics. Oh, and the best thing? No moron has tried to make this T shirt old before its time by artificially distressing it. LVC please take note.

Classic 60s West Coast T Shirts

With so many ‘heritage’ labels getting their own heritage wrong (LVC, LL Bean, Brooks Brothers) actually finding classic items that have not been messed with is pretty hard.

Leith Clothing from John Simons colleague Guy and his pal Lewis are producing limited simple and unadulterated classics. No logos, no nonsense. I bought one of these blue/off white striped Ts this week and the service from Leith was amazing. The first one was a bit small on me and they sent me a second one before I’d even posted the first.

I like to buy at least a season ahead and this is going to be a look with white 5 pockets and sperry CVOs (and a navy pendleton board shirt for the London summer) that will get much use. The only problem I have is I’m going to have to buy more. You know, when you see something and it fits and its classic you need to stock up for a future drought of ivy classics. Oh, and the best thing? No moron has tried to make this T shirt old before its time by artificially distressing it. LVC please take note.

Feb 17 '14

The great Jim Hutton as Ellery Queen. 70s take on 40s style.

Feb 14 '14

putthison:

A Little History On the Casualness of Shell Cordovan

Shell cordovan is sometimes thought of as a “dressy leather,” presumably because of how expensive it is, but it’s actually something historically considered to be quite casual. Indigo Shrimp has some neat advertisements from the shoe company Wolverine, originally printed in 1910, showing one of shell cordovan’s original applications as a workboot material.

Shell cordovan, as many readers will know, refers to leather drawn from the rears of horses. The word cordovan comes from the city of Cordoba in Spain, which was once renowned for its prowess in tanning. In the 16th and 17th centuries, skilled workers there would tan horse skins so they could be used to decorate wall hangings, armor, and trunks.

It wasn’t until the mid-19th century that the term “cordovan” began to refer to the shell of horse butts (hence the name “shell cordovan”). Much of shell cordovan production at this time was in Germany, where it was sold under the name “Spigelware,” which translates to “mirror goods.” It’s a name we can safely presume comes from shell cordovan’s natural shiny finish.

In a letter written in 1934, Horween (a famous Chicago tannery) claims that the original German versions of shell cordovan were too thick and stiff to be used for shoes, and that it wasn’t until shell cordovan tanning came to the US (via German and Dutch tanners), did the process become perfected for footwear. Whether that’s just company marketing propaganda, or actual history, it’s hard to say.

In any case, when you see the term “cordovan” nowadays, it’s often just referring to a specific color – something that’s a bit reddish brown, and slightly darker than burgundy. It’s very close to what Horween markets as their “#8.” It’s really only when you see the full term “shell cordovan” that you can trust it’s the thick horse leather that so many people covet. Today, the material is mostly used for the making of casual boots, country shoes, and loafers (particularly the tasseled kind). You’ll occasionally see it in a “dressier” shoe, but the material is really something that should be considered quite casual. And, when you wear it, the rest of your outfit should be equally casual as well. Workwear jackets and work shirts with shell cordovan boots; chinos and Shetland sweaters with shell tassel loafers; or button down shirts and tweed sport coats with almost any kind of shell shoes.

Great post!

Feb 14 '14
Just arrived. EBay steal of the year. New Allen Edmonds MacNeil in Shell Cordovan. £113.00
UK seller listed them as ‘Allen Edwards (sic) Stylish Brown Full Leather Shoes’. They even came with 2 pots of AE Cordovan cream and 2 pots of Alden cream. How could the seller not know they were so special? UK price at John Simons is £550.00.

Just arrived. EBay steal of the year. New Allen Edmonds MacNeil in Shell Cordovan. £113.00

UK seller listed them as ‘Allen Edwards (sic) Stylish Brown Full Leather Shoes’. They even came with 2 pots of AE Cordovan cream and 2 pots of Alden cream. How could the seller not know they were so special? UK price at John Simons is £550.00.

Apr 10 '13
Now the Secret is Out…J Keydge Suit from John Simons. I’ve had all three colours (navy, olive, tan) for six weeks or so but no weather yet to enjoy them. Trousers have 15” bottoms.
Now they’re on the JSA Facebook page, I can go public with this photo.

Now the Secret is Out…J Keydge Suit from John Simons. I’ve had all three colours (navy, olive, tan) for six weeks or so but no weather yet to enjoy them. Trousers have 15” bottoms.

Now they’re on the JSA Facebook page, I can go public with this photo.

Apr 4 '13
Vintage SERO The Purist Shirts
A recent haul. From Left to right :
Blue University Stripe Oxford
Blue End on End
Blue Chambray
Actually, like Herb Lester, I cannot bring myself to unpin them three months later, let alone wear them. When the weather finally improves and they can be shown to full advantage I’ll bite the bullet.

Vintage SERO The Purist Shirts

A recent haul. From Left to right :

Blue University Stripe Oxford

Blue End on End

Blue Chambray

Actually, like Herb Lester, I cannot bring myself to unpin them three months later, let alone wear them. When the weather finally improves and they can be shown to full advantage I’ll bite the bullet.

Apr 4 '13

The Third Pair of Vintage Shoe Finds from Last Weekend
This is a rare pair of the Dexter Weejun copies as seen in the ad above. No beefroll, and a proper leather sole too.

The Third Pair of Vintage Shoe Finds from Last Weekend

This is a rare pair of the Dexter Weejun copies as seen in the ad above. No beefroll, and a proper leather sole too.

Apr 3 '13
Gant Madras Hugger 1965.

Gant Madras Hugger 1965.

Apr 3 '13